Christmas Island Trip Log 2006

7/30   Well, this time next month I will be on CI and I can't wait.   Today is Palma's (my wife's) birthday and I have assembled some gear for her to share the trip with me.   A Winston Boron IIX 9' 8 WT and a Ross Big Game #4 with Bermuda Triangle Taper (thanks Ray Bianco ) and a Fishpond Blue River Lumbar Pack with about 100 bonefish flies that I tied for her.   I also gave her a pair of nippers, a pair of Dr Slick pliers and assorted leaders and flouro tippets.   Between now and the 28 th when we leave I have to work on her knot tying skills.   I am really excited to be sharing this trip with her.   We haven't really fished together like this for a long time and I am hoping she will get into some exciting fish.  

I have been tying flies for about three weeks and I still don't think I have enough for the week.   Brian Beach came by the shop yesterday and handed me two boxes of flies and he said he would bring some more when he can find them.   I still need to tie some more and I need some bigger flies for Giant Trevally and any offshore fish (dogtooth tuna, yellowfin, wahoo????) that we go after.   I have been trying a new (to me) technique that I got from Bob Popovics when he did the online demo at our shop.    The bucktail and flash is tied in going forward over the eye of the hook and then is folded back over the hook using a tube (I use an empty Bic pen).   It creates an illusion of size without a lot of materials.   Bob calls it the hollow fly technique and I think this captures the essence of it.   

Brian also brought by a couple of Tibors and a Thomas & Thomas Saltwater 6WT to take as backup and some of the reps have promised to send or drop off some other gear to take to evaluate/play with.   Perks of the job.   I have an 8WT and a 10 WT but I need a12WT for the really big GT's and the offshore species.   I'm a little nervous about going into blue water in such a small craft but I am determined to see what's out there.   Several people I have talked to tell me of seeing sailfish close in to shore and I know that guys get yellowfin and dogtooth tuna really close to the reef.   We'll see what happens,

8/05 Jason Lozano sent me a Scientific Anglers Redfish line that he recommends for flats fishing because the short front taper makes for fast rod loading and quick casts.

8/16 Saw John Sherman today and he brought by the new Z-Axis rods which are replacing the XP's.   They are super light and powerful.   John is trying to get me a demo to take to Xmas Island.   He also loaned me a XI2, a Tibor Gulfstream reel and a new Rio Tropical Outbound line to chase GT's with.    He says I'll need it.  

8/24 Spent the day at the Fly Fishing Retailer Show in Denver and had a chance to talk with Randall Kaufman about my trip.   He reckons that there will be very few people there and that the fishing will be fantastic.   I hope so.

8/25 Tim Rajeff gave me some new Ridgelines from Airflo to test at XI and Jason Lozano scored me a Nautilus reel to demo.   I'm really starting to get excited.

8/26 Got some sunscreen samples today from a company called Sol.   It is made with a zinc oxide formula that does not irritate your eyes and is completely waterproof.   I'll give it a good test next week.

8/27 Spent the day packing and repacking all our gear and clothing.   I think I have everything we need.   Only time will tell.   The anticipation is killing me!   No sleep for me tonight!   

8/28 Up at the crack of dawn.   Managed about two hours of sleep on and off.   Traffic was not too bad on the 405.   I was concerned about carrying on the rods but they did not hassle me at all.   I had eight 4 piece rods in a single Sage rod tube and the only thing they opened was my carryon with all my camera gear.   Strapped on the Ipod   and slept on the way to Honolulu so it was an easy flight.   The hotel shuttle picked us up within 5 minutes of our call and the hotel is close to the airport which is about all it has going for it.   I think I would try a different hotel if we do this again.    We took a ride into Waikiki to check it out and found it to be crowded and noisy.   Not my kind of place for a vacation.

Tomorrow is Christmas day.

8/29   Our flight was at noon so we so we had a leisurely breakfast, checked the email on the Wifi in the hotel lobby and got to the terminal with a couple of hours to spare.   Met up with three other anglers at the checkin who were staying at the lodge and we shared some fish stories.   Roger Flynn, a retired engineer, was on his second trip there in less than a month, John Sawyer, a retired high school physics teacher from Honolulu, also on a second trip to CI and Ron Lum, a retired attorney also from Honolulu, who started going to CI in the 80's made for great travel companions and were a pleasure to spend the week with.   Check in was a breeze and once again no hassle carry on the four-piece rod tube.   We also ran into a young couple from Cork, Ireland who were on their way to Fiji on the trip around the world.    The flight on the Air Pacific 737 was pleasant and soon we were starting our descent into the primitive CI airport.   The first glimpse of the island is breathtaking.   Mile upon square mile of flats stretch across the lagoon. Milky blue flats surrounded by turquoise deeper channels and white sandy beaches surrounding a C shaped lagoon and covered with coconut palms.   The airport is basically a black top runway with a small terminal/shack housing immigration and customs.   We where quickly checked thru customs and were issued our fishing permits right there in the airport.   The Head Guide, Teannake, introduced himself and the luggage was quickly transferred to a waiting truck.   The ride to The Villages took approximately 25 minutes and we got our first glimpse of the island and the people. Tabwakea village is right on the beach on the lagoon side of the island and our cottage was 100 ft from the water and surrounded by coconut palms.We were greeted warmly, if a little shyly, by the staff our luggage   was taken to our room.   Rooms are large and clean but Spartan.   Two twin beds, a desk, two chairs, a basic closet, and a small fridge which contained water, soda and beer.  

Teannake asked us to meet with him to after we had settled in to discuss guide rotation and what types of fish we wanted to target.   He told us to be ready at 6:30 am to catch the tide just right.   

Dinner was super.   A green salad, Ahi Sashimi with wasabe and soy sauce, steamed rice, French fries, Zucchini, peppers & onions, and grilled Ahi.   Wow!   Vanilla ice cream and coffee for desert. Heaven!    Palma went for a walk along the beach before dinner and got some great pics of the local children.   After dinner we sat out under the stars.   Oh my God! The stars here are sooo bright and we realized that what we thought was a cloud was actually the Milky Way in all its glory.    As we enjoyed the night sky we could here the sound of the village children singing as they practiced for a choral competition. It was magical.   Trade winds were softly stirring the curtains in our room as drifted off to sleep to the sounds of the children singing.   Bone fishing tomorrow.

8/30   Up at 5:30 and watched the sun come up over the lagoon.   Slept well.   Sounded like rain during the night but it was just the trade wind whispering in the palms.   Had a really good breakfast of cereal & milk, fresh papaya, orange juice, home fries, toast, eggs (to order) and bacon.   I used the toast to make a bacon and egg sandwich for lunch but there were deli meats, peanut butter and jelly to build a lunch to your own specs.   The guide loaded the coolers onto the boats just a few yards offshore. We loaded our gear onto the boats which have simple rod racks built into the boat to secure your gear for the short ride to the flats.   Palma and I have Teannake as our guide today and I asked him to help Palma catch her first bonefish.   It was windy on the flats and she was having some problems punching the line out but she was quickly hooked up to her first fish.   This fish broke off and one shook off but within five minutes she landed her first bonefish quickly followed by a second.   Then it was my turn.   Teannake soon spotted a fish and, although I could not see it, I followed his directions and proceeded to bonk the fish right on the head and spook it.   Although these vast flats are covered with warm, clear water the wind chop and occasional cloud cover made the bones hard to spot.   Teannake, however had no problem spotting them and I was soon fast to a streaking silver bone.   The rest of the day was more of the same.   Silvery tan shadows gliding towards us with many hookups.   I also amused myself hooking trigger fish, puffers and a 6 inch marble grouper.   The day flew by.   After lunch we were dropped off at another flat and we continued to land bonefish.   I lost a couple of nice fish when the hook pulled out after long runs and Palma had a 20+ lb trevally come unbuttoned.   A fun day with lots to see and do.   My biggest bonefish today was 4+ lbs and John landed one over 7 lbs.  

Dinner was another sumptuous buffet and we broke out one of the duty-free bottles of wine to share.   Met with Kiraren who manages the facility and we learned a lot about the community.   We were pleasantly tired and soon after dinner we drifted off to sleep to the sound of the children singing and the trade winds whispering through the coconut palms.   I love it here. Tomorrow we go to the Korean Wreck.

9/1   Left the compound at 7:15 am for the 1hr 20 min(felt like 2 hrs) truck ride to the ocean flats near the Korean Wreck.   Our guide today is Simio (sp?) and I left him to work with Palma and tried to spot some bones on my own.   Not Good!   After about a half hour of fruitless searching I spotted a fish slashing at my bonefish fly.   I recast and hooked a bluefin trevally about 2 lbs.   I decided to put on a popper and choose a Crease fly.   On the first cast I had a gang of bluefin try to annihilate the fly and finally hooked one.   I spent a delightful morning casting to roving gangs of bluefin trevally all very eager to tear up my crease fly.   By lunch time the crease fly was chewed up pretty bad so I changed to one of the Mylar poppers that Dean had tied for me. I hoped the wind would die down a little so that Palma could have a little bit easier time casting ( she was steadily improving and catching fish besides).    I decided, after lunch, to walk up the beach a little way and look for some bigger trevally.   I saw about 6 bluefins cruising and I fired a cast out but it was blown about ten feet to the right.   Rather than pick up the fly and recast I just gave it a chug.   Out of the corner of my right eye I saw a large green shape racing at my fly.   He exploded on my popper and I got a solid hookup.   Big mistake!   I was using my 8wt XP and I was hooked up to a 30Lb+ Giant trevallywho was having none of it.   He headed south off the flat at a high rate of speed.   I watched the line disappear off the Tibor at an awe-inspiring rate.   It was approximately 100yds to the edge of the reef and he went past that without a thought of slowing.   I could not slow this animal down.   I was down to about twenty yards of backing left (out of 200yds) and in danger of losing everything.   I grabbed the whirling spool and clamped down.   The leader sheared off.   The leader felt like it had been through a cheese grater and so did my psyche.   I was shaking and somewhat intimidated by the awesome speed and power displayed by the fish.   I have caught many species of fish, and they were pussycats next to this tough guy.   Spent the rest of the afternoon trying to calm my shattered nerves.   The afternoon was pretty much a replay of the morning except that I had to rescue a little 12"   bluefin trevally from the jaws of a very determined 4ft black tip reef shark by hoisting him up on the beach.   Palma had an interesting day landing bonefish right in the surf and landed her first bluefin trevally.   After another wild ride we got back to the village at 7:00 pm and had a quick wash up before an incredible seafood buffet dinner.   Including lobster, ahi, octopus in lobster sauce, octopus in curry and ceviche.   We were entertained during dinner by a male quartet who sang island songs in four-part harmony accompanied by guitar and ukulele.   A truly memorable dinner.   Palma is already asleep as I write and I am looking forward to another day on the flats tomorrow.  

9/2   We started bonefishing first thing this am and immediately Teannake had Palma hooked up.   I set her up with a Nautilus reel in right hand wind and she liked this set up.   We had a fun morning catching bones and after lunch we were dropped of at a deeper, more rugged flat to search for trevally.   There was a lot of dead staghorn coral and this made for tough walking.   We started to see bonefish and trevally right away and Palma hooked and landed some bones in the deeper water.   I hooked about a 4lb bluefin and 20 minutes later I had a chance at another big GT and blew it.   He grabbed right at the end of a strip and I could not get a good hook set on him. Huge boil and... gone!   I was bummed.   I did hook a smaller GT (about 4 lbs) a few minutes later and he fought hard for his size.   The highlight of the afternoon was a 15lb GT that inhaled a Sea Habit and put a serious bend in the XI2 12 wt.   Fun Stuff!  

I was falling asleep at dinner.   All that walking and fighting fish has me tuckered out.

Offshore tomorrow!

9/3   The plan was for us to fish offshore today and Palma was going to stay behind and take a look around the island.    Unfortunately there was a misunderstanding with the other boatman and we had to fish inside.   I fished with Chaitan as my guide today and was not impressed.   We spooked more fish than we cast to.   Lots of fish but we were on top of them before we saw them.   I did get 11 fish and a small GT (even these pull hard).   Palma had an interesting day visiting with some of the islanders and handed out some of the small gifts that she had brought for the children.   She sat and colored a picture with crayons with a little girl who had never seen crayons before.   Once again dinner was superb with steak cooked to order and a Robert Mondavi Pinot Noir courtesy of Roger.   Ron showed his and John's Seychelles trip.   Live aboard 40ft katamaran, self guided fishing with easy fishing and and lots of variety. Will have to check this out.

9/4   Finally made it outside this AM and we trolled while searching for feeding birds.   No luck!   We did see several locals fishing deep (250ft) with handlines who were catching an occasional yellowfin tuna.   We went down the coast line below Poland   and were joined for a while by a large pod of spinner dolphin who performed around the boat for a while before losing interest and streaking joyfully away. We hooked some small queenfish and Palma caught a bluefin trevally but pickin's were slim.   We beached the boat on a pristine white sand beach with turquoise water over gorgeous coral heads.   Motored back toward the lagoon and Roger landed a big (25lb+) trevally on a spinning outfit.   After we got back into the lagoon Palma hooked up on a decent barracuda but it threw the hook on the first   jump.   A few minutes later I hooked a nice bluefin trevally in the 12lb range that smoked line off the reel several times before we were able to land him.   Back ashore we had fresh trevally courtesy of John.   One of the children brought Palma a hand sewn blouse and we were invited to the village maneabe to watch the children perform some of the songs that we had heard them practicing on previous nights. They were wonderful! Beautiful! So full of life and joy.     It was a real treat.

9/5   Last Day!   We set out early with Simio and went left past Cook Island and immediately ran into a pod of dolphin and there were a lot more birds in the air today.   Palma got the first hit by an oceanic skipjack of about 8lbs and I landed one soon after. From then on we had constant action with skippies and yellowfin tuna up to 25 lbs.   Several times we had both rods doubled over with yellowfin or skippies tearing line off the reels.   When we got tired of pulling on tuna we ran back up to Cook Island and snorkeled a little bay on the ocean side of the island.   There were lots of beautiful reef fish, giant iridescent blue clams and multi colored coral heads the size of Volkswagens in 10 to 15 feet of crystal clear water.    We ate lunch watching the thousands of sea birds wheeling and screaming around Cook Island.    Then back to the flats for some more bonefish and one last GT.   Then back to Tabwakea for some really fine lobster, ahi, octopus etc.   and a hula from a young dancer.   The locals presented us with traditional headdresses made from Ti leaves and tuber rose flowers which smelled wonderful.   All in all another wonderful evening and a wonderful end to our week at The Villages.  

9/6   5AM comes early no matter where you are.   No difference here.   We grabbed a quick breakfast and loaded up the vehicles for the ride to the airport.    We arrived at the airport at 5:50 AM and got in line to check in.   This is were it gets weird.  

The problem was not with the Villages but with the Air Pacific representative at the CI airport.  A couple from Arizona was being checked in and there was a group of 5 people from UC Santa Barbara waiting their turn.  When he was done checking in the Arizona couple he picked up his paperwork and walked into his office.  We had no idea what was going on and after inquiries by the group from UCSB were informed that he had closed checkin at 6 am and we could not check in.  Meanwhile this guy was standing in his office doing nothing.  The plane landed and was unloaded and refueled and this guy was still standing around.  It appeared to us that he was playing "let's mess with the tourists".  The other people working at the airport stayed at their counter in anticipation of our being checked in and were grinning behind their hands at our obvious concern.  Eventually Palma, video taped the time on the clock (I'll have to look at the tape to get an exact time) and then video taped the guy standing in his office.  He closed the office door but about 20 seconds later a female assistant came to the counter and slowly began to check everyone in. It was about 7am.  

After we got through security we sat in the little caged room for quite a while.  The Air Pacific pilot finally got of the aircraft and asked what the hell was going on.  We boarded the plane about 2 minutes later.  The plane left about 40 minutes late.  An unfortunate and unnecessary negative to end the trip.