My wife, Dolores, and I have just come back from one of the most fantastic and memorable fly-fishing excursions that we have ever taken. On the 16 th of February we left Southern California to fly fish the Patagonia region of Chile and Argentina with twelve of our customers, friends and fishing buddies and we had the good fortune to be able to split our time between two fabulous lodges, Estancia del Zorro and Cinco Rios. My wife and I were also lucky enough to spend a couple of days fly-fishing and exploring the area around another fabulous lodge, Yan Kee Way, on our journey back to every day reality.

Jay Burgin, of Five River's Lodge, and his partner and our host, Sebastian Galilea run two amazing fly fishing lodges and each have their own flavor that make them special. I had been putting this trip together with Jay for over a year and in actuality what started out as a anniversary vacation for Dolores and me ended up a group of fourteen. The trip sold out two weeks after it was announced.  We extended our visit to Chile by staying at Yan Kee Way a fantastic and beautiful fly fishing and outdoors adventure resort, owned by Michael Darling, father of Nicole Apple of Xculsive Xpeditions, on the shores of the biggest lake I have ever seen and with their own glacier capped volcano just a stone's throw away.

Our flight to Chile left LAX at 12:30 PM on the 16 th and we flew to Santiago with a stop over in Lima, Peru. Well, that is when the fun began. Our plane was late leaving Lima and when we arrived in Santiago, we missed our scheduled flight to Balmaceda, our final destination. One member of our group did have a working cell phone (Thanks! Ted) and we called Sebastian and told him that we will be arriving about an hour later. Actually, people were arriving at different times and that only complicated the trip but it was never a problem with our host. Sebastian and his brother Juan, who helps manage, was extremely gracious and waited for all of us to arrive. They made sure everyone was deposited at the right lodge, which are about 45 minutes apart. Eight started out fishing at Cinco Rios and six started out fishing at "Zorro". After finishing fishing on the third day those who wanted to, made the switch and arrived just in time for dinner at the new lodge. My wife and I made the switch on the fourth day, so we were able to fish with both groups. I told you it was complicated, but never a problem with our host. It was just good luck that we had the availability to fish both lodges. 

Dick Simpson, Ted Simpson, Jim Maben, Steve Newman, Dolores, and I started out at "Zorro" and Dave Hardacre, Max and Harriet Poper, Bill and Carol Gordean, Jay and Leesa Bingham and Jaimie Massion, started out at Cinco Rios. Even though they are only forty-five minutes away from each other they are more different then similar in topography and fishing waters. "Zorro" is a 15,000-acre estancia that looks like Montana with more grassland and more spring creeks. This beautiful lodge is only three years old. It is situated in a sparsely populated region on the Chile/Argentina border and the lodge has to generate their own electricity that shuts off at midnight. The roads leading to "Zorro" are still not paved but this lodge is a jewel in this spectacular panoramic region of alpaca, cattle and sheep ranches. I got the feeling from one of our guides that they are envious of the Argentinean's of this area because once you cross the border the unpaved roads are wider (A little Chilean humor from my guide). At night when the lights are out, you can sit on the balcony of your room and see the Milky Way and the air is crisp and clean---no smog.  Cinco Rios is a rustic, and beautiful lodge in the foothills overlooking Coyhaique, a bustling city of 35,000 located near more mountainous lush terrain with bigger waters similar to the Pacific Northwest. Here you can sit on the porch at night and see the lights of the city below you and no smog as well. When we arrived at each destination a smiling hostess presented all with a glass of Pisco Sour, and after each day of fishing we were offered this "Welcome home!" libation. When we all gathered in the den before dinner, there were daily offerings of freshly made Chilean empanadas or other tasty treats, and of course, more Pisco Sours. Our dinners were always paired with all sorts of tasty Chilean wines. All the meals at either Cinco Rios or Estancia del Zorro were delicious and hearty. Yes, some dietary restrictions can be taken into consideration by the chef.

Not everyone in our group wanted to fly fish and at both locations, as long as there were two people not fishing, they had their own guide for the day to take them to some spectacular locations. Harriet and Carol didn't fish at all and my wife fished about sixty per cent of the time. The non-fishing women, Harriet and Carol, truly enjoyed their stay in Chile.

Our extremely patient guide was Alberto Gomez, no relation to my wife, and our first fishing day started with about a 45-minute drive on some very scenic roads down into a valley As we were descending, my wife spotted a condor. As an aside, I think that the Patagonia region is a birder's dream. The sheer number of birds we saw was amazing; Ibis, flamingo, hawks, eagles, condor, kingfisher, and birds, whose names I can't even pronounce were common.  Oh, and very few biting insects at this time of year. Well, having descended into this valley we had a 10 to 15 minute walk to a beautiful stretch of the Cohaique River. An easily wadeable freestone river where we both caught numerous rainbow and brown trout to about 15 inches that day all on size 12 adams and stimulators. Alberto had us using 3X and five weight rods and I eventually started using 4X tippets. The weather that day was mostly sunny, but windy.

The second day was an adventure; we went into Argentina. Our host Sebastian went with us that day because he wanted to talk to another Estancia's owner in the region about acquiring fishing rights. There are spring creeks and lakes on many of these vast properties. It started out as a sunny windless day and for the most part it stayed practically wind free. The fun began at the border. First we had to fill out one of those government forms to leave Chile and then we had to fill out one of those government forms to enter Argentina. We had no problems, but with bureaucrats, every i has to be dotted...etc.  Every week this lodge takes people into Argentina to fish and usually there are no problems, but on this day there was a new body at the desk and some minor problem developed and it took all of Sebastian's influence to get it worked out satisfactorily.  Finally after a short delay we were on our way to fish a private spring creek on a friend's large estancia that was an arm of the Mayo River. As we entered this estancia we passed some ponds were hundreds of pink flamingoes were resting. What a sight!  This was a fun day of dry fly fishing using mostly a size 6 hopper parachute and this was the only day where there was a major hatch (size 12 caddis) that went on for over an two hours and aided greatly to fish take.  I actually caught about 30 fish that day using one fly on some of the most beautiful rainbows I have seen with dark black spots. We caught fish to about 17 inches mostly rainbows and some browns. Dolores was with the guide and I was on my own and a funny thing happened. I started taking some pictures and I thought I put my camera back in the pocket of my G3 waders. I almost got back to the starting point to have some lunch and I couldn't find my camera and I panicked and took my jacket off and my vest off and went through every pocket and still no camera. Alberto was walking towards me and I told him that I just wanted some water and that I need to get back to work the banks where I might have left it. My problem was exacerbated because I also forgot to take some water with me and I was quite thirsty after three hours of fishing. Well, he wanted to go with me to look for it and I said no, but he insisted and then the both of us began to walk the grasses on the bank and then Sebastian came over and wondered what was going on and he wanted to help and I said no, but he insisted so he started to help. After about a half an hour I said to forget it and they reluctantly agreed. So when we got back to the car Dolores was there and   was upset with me because she thought I made them help me and thus delayed everyone's lunch. I was bummed, all my pictures so far were gone and then on top of that I would have to face Ken when I returned to tell him that I lost the shop's camera. At least I caught some nice fish, but I still felt pretty darn bad since I had no camera for the rest of the trip. After lunch Sebastian said he would like to try an exploratory trip to a new spring creek since he just got permission from the owner to fish and he wanted to know whether we were interested. You bet I did, a chance to fish a new spring creek, that's where the big browns were. When we got to the owners' home to let him know that we were ready he decided to come along with and watch us. The first area we fished was a classic Hot Creek looking spring creek and from a distance it looked terrific. Alberto and I got up to it and looked in the water and I had a bad feeling about the results. The banks were partially destroyed by cattle and the water was shallow with little flow, choked with weeds and no rises at all. The owner said we must try further down stream. When we got to this site it was incredible. The banks were overgrown with lush thick vegetation like watercress. In some cases it went all the way into the creek with openings no wider than a foot, but the water was clear and deep. It was like fishing small long and narrow pools where the creek flowed under the vegetation. In every one of these pools we were pulling out rainbows. Fish after fish, we were having a ball. Dolores was done fishing for the day and we both wanted Alberto to enjoy some fishing time.   I came upon Alberto and he was on his belly trying to cast upstream between bushes and trees into this long narrow pool that was 15 inches wide--- and he caught a nice fish. Every pool there was one or two fish. What a fun afternoon. The owner of the estancia and his son were having fun just watching us. Sometimes we ventured to close to the edge and were up to our chest in water and vegetation and had to be pulled out.  We were invited back to the owner's home to have dinner but had to decline. The people of this region are so friendly and out going, which helped to make this a wonderful trip. It was getting late and we headed back to the border where it was easier getting back to the lodge. Dinner was at eight and we got back around 7:40 and had just enough time to change for dinner. So, as I was getting out of my waders something plopped onto the floor. Low and behold, there was my camera, it had fallen down somewhere inside my waders. My wife was laughing at me and called me a moron and I was embarrassed, but I had my camera back. I went out onto the balcony and there was Alberto and Sebastian talking. I interrupted them and said. "Hey guys, guess what I found in side my waders when I took them off?." Well, Alberto started to climb up the balcony to strangle me. Anyway, I was the butt of all jokes that night at dinner, but at least I had my camera back.

The third day was Dolores' and my chance at the big browns of  "The Spring Creek."  This spring creek is right within sight of the lodge and a major reason many people want to fish  "Zorro." You have a chance at big fish over 30 inches, but this year, not many have been caught that large. On the first day, Steve Newman got a fish that had to go over 24 inches and now it was our turn. It is a fragile fishery and only one day per guest is allowed. Our turn was day three and it was horribly windy and with Alberto's help, Dolores scored the first big fish a 21" beauty. My first fish was only 15" and she was enjoying that. The fish really spook easily and the guides don't even want you standing close to the banks. You stand back 10-20' and try hit an area that is in some cases not visible because of the grasses that hide the creek.   Alberto had us casting to the near bank, which meant that most of the line is over the ground and the leader is in the water. You are looking for the tell tale rings or listening for the sound of a splash. You aren't necessarily casting for distance, but you need to be accurate. Good luck!   Being directed by our guide without even seeing the water that I am trying to cast to is a little disconcerting and into a wind as well. In spite of myself, I caught 6 browns that day all on parachute hoppers and all between 15" and 24". I lost another and missed a set on one as well. I decided not to use the hopper and dropper, which proved more successful, for me. I was proud of my wife's big fish and she was quite pleased too. I think Steve Newman had the big fish of the trip. Jim did great on the creek, as well as, Dick and Ted Simpson. Jamie appeared to have caught the most fish over 20 on his turn. He said that he had the best single day of fly-fishing he ever experienced after Alberto made a color correction on his parachute hopper and tied a few up that night after Dolores and I fished the creek. Bill profited greatly too from this change. After day three fishing, Jim and Steve Newman went to Cinco Rios and the entire group at Cinco Rios came to Zorro. I decided to come back a little early to great the new arrivals from Cinco Rios and during the social time before dinner Sebastian had a surprise for Dolores and me, an anniversary celebration. We were shocked and moved by what he did. He had brought in a trio to serenade us with Chilean music and he gave us a special bottle of wine from his own collection. Dolores received a bouquet of flowers and when we got back to our room there was Champaign for us. The meal that night was spectacular.  Fun was had by all! After dinner our guide, Alberto, sang a wonderful Eric Claptan song for us in Spanish and also played classical guitar. What a night! 

 I had one more day at Zorro and then Dolores and I went to Cinco Rios while Dick and his son Ted decided to stay and that paid off for them. They were taken to a marshy area and were sloshing through waist muck to get to a spot that they swore contained no fish. The guide proved them wrong by pulling out a large fish. After that they both began to catch fish after fish swearing that the marsh was going to consume them. At Dinner Max said that he and Dave where hooked into King Salmon on some river and that he was on a 45# fish for a loooong time before it came un-buttoned.

On my wife's and my last day at Zorro, she decided not to go fishing but to go with Harriet and Carol to do some sight seeing. Sebastian and Alberto thought that we should go back to the Mayo in Argentina and we had Bill, Jamie and their guide join us. We fished a lower stretch of water that proved quite fun for all. It was windier than the first time, but highly productive. I lost a nice fish there and was upset for falling a sleep at the wheel.

When we got back to Zorro, Dolores and I were taken over to Cinco Rios for dinner and joined Steve and Jim who said they had fished a stretch of the Emperor Guillermo River and had each caught over 100 fish in a 500-foot stretch. Coincidently, Bill told me earlier that I need to have my guide take me to some river where he and Jay and Leesa all caught a ton of fish. Dolores decided she was done fishing and decided to have some fun sight seeing with the girls.   I asked if it was OK with Jim and Steve that we all fish together and with no objections we all decided to fish another stretch of the Emperor Guillermo.

On the 5 th day of fishing over breakfast we decided that we would have our guides take us to a new stretch of the EG and it proved interesting. We started out with two vehicles and one of them had two flats so we all jumped into the other. Thank goodness we all were going to the same spot and it proved to be quite a productive day. What makes this river fun is that the wind most always blows up canyon and that makes for easy upstream casting (You should get a kick out of that Rob). I tried the hopper and dropper and caught a few fish, but didn't like it so I switched to a straight hopper and slowly started to catch fish after fish. This river is amazing it reminds me of a wider version of the San Joaquin. Fish everywhere and they didn't spook easily. We fished some challenging deeper pools, where I missed a big fish on the H&D, but there were plenty of wide-open river with rising trout. When the day ended I had 100, Jim about 150 and Steve about 120 and yes they used the H&D. Call me stubborn. On the way back to our lodge we passed Dick and Ted who last name just happens to be Simpson and they just had floated a river that just happened to be called the Simpson, and they did just fine there.

The last day at Cinco Rios was my most frustrating, challenging and toughest. and not a pretty way to end the stay, but you take what you get. This was the windiest day of the trip, but more in major gusts than continuous. We all floated that day. Steve and Jim's guide Brian took them to the Simpson where they said they caught only a few each. Jay came up from Zorro and Bubba took us to the Manihuelis, a beautiful freestone river, and things were not going great for me; I hooked a nice trout and missed setting the hook. A little while latter I hooked a big rainbow and I got it all the way up into the leader and it came unbuttoned (and all that caught on tape) and then I just flat out missed a strike. Jay missed a couple too but was able to bring in a couple nice fish. One was caught from the boat and one from wading.

Every Friday the have the Assado where they grill a lamb in the Chilean tradition and have a big party where traditional foods are served. It was a wonderful celebration where the whole staff shows up.

Saturday morning we had our last breakfast and then we all were taken to Couhaiqui for a little souvenir shopping and sight seeing. After a light lunch back at Cinco Rios, we collected our luggage, said our farewells to all and met everyone who was leaving at the Balmaceda airport.

When I first arrived at Estancia del Zorro Sebastian said to me, "Mi casa es tu casa"(my home is your home). He really meant it and day after day we always felt it. They always tried to take care of all of our needs and I know that my wife and I will always think nothing but the best of our visit to this amazing region. Maybe it goes further and is really part of the makeup of the people of Patagonia, but they are a warm and friendly folk. On several occasions, people we had only just met invited us into their homes.

Most of our group was headed home, but not Dolores and me; our next stop was Puerto Mont and our next adventure---Yan Kee Way. We were further north and the landscape is lush. The weather was also warmer and it was less windy. Finally!

We were picked up at the airport and began our hour and a half ride to this picturesque resort on the shore of Lago Llanquihue. The Osorno volcano with its glacier-capped summit dominates the landscape and you have a perfect view from almost anywhere in the restaurant and lounge and much of the resort. My goodness, watching the sunset and the changing reflections of light off the mountain and glacier is a magnificent delight, especially from the restaurant at this wonderful resort. With each passing minute colors of the volcano constantly change from white and brown and green to purple and blue and orange and red and finally to shades of gray and black.

Unfortunately, we were only there for two nights but we made the most of it. I went fishing the nest day and with my guide Renaldo, we headed by jet boat up the Petrohue River. Yes, I still did some dry fly fishing, but I have to tell you that I spent most of my day fishing using streamers and a 250-grain head. I caught over 20 fish to about 20"s both browns and rainbows. King salmon were still around and we did go look for them, but no luck. I did spend a couple of hours walking up one of the tributaries dry fly fishing and caught a few nice fish on stimulators.  Dolores spent the first part of her day with her guide, Ricardo, photographically exploring the Volcano and the waterfalls and the lands and waters around the area. The second half of her day she spent at the spa, pampering herself.

The restaurant, Latitude 42, at this resort is sensational and we had to take pictures of the way the food was presented on our plates. The area around the lake and especially around Yan Kee Way is a tourist destination and the restaurant is open to the public. This is a year round five star resort and it caters to all types of outdoor activities, but the lodge and guides understand all the needs of the fly fisher. You can jet boat, float or wade and walk.

Our plane was not do to leave Puerto Mont until 6:15PM and we had the whole morning left so we decided to do something that I never thought I would do. Zip Line down through the canopy of trees. Yikes! I kind of have a fear of heights, but the thought of zipping down on a wire hundreds of feet above a canyon trying to look at the surroundings almost like a bird gliding down a mountain, piqued my interest. After my first anxiety attack was over, it was great. I mean really thrilling and I know we will always remember that experience.

Our host, Michael Darling, understand the needs of the fly fisher and the needs of those seeking outdoor adventures, but above all he understands the needs of those wanting to indulge themselves in the niceties of life at a luxury resort, and all of this in a spectacular area of the world.

The common thread (besides why we are really there--to fly fish) that all three of these lodges exude is that they understand service and the commitment to their guests; to provide an experience that will be remembered forever and will keep us wanting to return.

In closing this journal of mine, I would like to add a little bit about the people of this amazing region of the world. Except for a couple bureaucrats at the borders, everyone we came in contact with in Patagonia made us feel most welcome in their countries. They are a genuine friendly people and accepted strangers easily and warmly, as though we had known them for years. Everyone who worked at Yan Kee Way was helpful and friendly at all times, the mark of a great resort and my wife and I would have loved to stay their longer and seen and done more. What I am about to tell you is the truth, my wife and I will always have a special place in our hearts for Sebastian Galilea and his family, as well as head guide Alberto Gomez. These people, including the staff at both lodges, made our group feel special, almost as though we were family, a mark of a great lodge. Fly fishing as many places as possible is primarily what we fly fishers want to do, and the added bonus, learning about the regions and the peoples of those regions that we visit, makes all of the fly fishing experiences just that more full filling and creates a lifetime of memories.

If you have any questions regarding this trip please contact Fishermen's Spot